3D printing is definitely the way to go, you will have to strategically place the snap joints so that the layer lines are not aligned with the direction of the applied force, or else they will break. You also need to choose a material that can work outdoors like PETG or ABS for example. The production volumes are also very achievable with modern 3D printers.

Absolutely, this is a common approach, and we often use 3D printing to prototype components that will eventually be machined, molded, or cast. It’s a great way to verify fit and function before committing to more expensive materials like aluminum. If you’re going to prototype with CNC machining, I’d recommend using 6061-T6 aluminum as it’s typically the most cost-effective option for the final part

In my practice I’ve found that while Cubic offers good strength from all angles, the true key to part strength lies more in the walls than the infill itself. The integrity of a part relies heavily on the number of top, bottom, and wall layers, not so much on the infill percentage or type. Even with as little as 10% infill, you can achieve remarkable stiffness. Therefore, for optimal strength, I would also advise to increase perimeter layers rather than infill density. But this depends on what you print, of course.