Hi Daniel,

Great question! To get a mirror polish finish on your copper CNC parts with a roughness of Ra0.4 µm, you need to specify this clearly both on the quoting site and in your drawing.

On the quoting site, there should be a section for surface finishes. Choose the option “custom” and write “mirror polishing” and mention the roughness value of Ra0.4 µm in the “Max required roughness” section.

For your drawing, make sure to include a note near the relevant part that says something like “Mirror polish finish, Ra0.4 µm.” This way, the manufacturers will know exactly what you need.

By doing both, you’ll ensure your parts get the smooth, shiny finish you’re looking for. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!

Best,

Certainly, Todor!

In the realm of CNC (CADCAM) machining, integrating engraving directly into your CAD designs primarily serves a visual presentation role. It’s not the most practical approach for the actual machining process. The most effective strategy is to keep the engraving separate and focus on simplicity for both execution and readability.

Key Points:
CAD Designs: Use them for showcasing how the final product should look, including the positioning and style of the engravings. It’s great for planning and visual approval but not for the machining itself.
Best Practice for CNC Machining:

Font Selection: Opt for the simplest possible design, often just a single-stroke line. This ensures clarity, ease of machining, and minimizes complications.
Machining Approach: Perform the engraving as a separate step from the primary machining process. This allows for adjustments and ensures precision without compromising the part’s integrity.
By focusing on these principles, you’ll achieve optimal results in your CNC projects. If there’s anything more you’d like to dive into or clarify, feel free to reach out!

Thanks, Attila

Hey Manon and all,

In the last 16 years I dancing around different CAD/CAM platforms, (like Hypermill, EdgeCam, GibbsCam, AlphaCAM, SolidWokrs, Fusion 360)  it’s thrilling to see what add-ins you folks find indispensable.

Greg’s shoutout to Xometry’s app hits home for me – nothing beats getting that manufacturability thumbs up while you’re still in the sketch phase. 

InsightSeeker, CAMWorks is indeed a jewel for those of us in the CNC world, seamlessly blending into SolidWorks. And who doesn’t love Fusion 360’s shiny tools for making our designs come to life before hitting the shop floor?

Tilmann98, FM Gears and Cut/Join by Component for Fusion360 sound like they save buckets of time. I must give it a try. Designing precision gears that will work in real life as I imagine is a very time-consuming process for me. thanks for the tip 🙂

Here’s my two cents:
– HSMWorks for that smooth design-to-toolpath action, especially if you’re a SolidWorks or Inventor aficionado.  
– And for keeping your toolbox sharp, Machining Cloud is my go-to for the latest and greatest on cutting tools (3D models, feeds and speeds data and much more – definitely a time saver)

Always on the lookout for those CAD/CAM life hacks thanks for the grate tips 🙂

• This reply was modified 1 year ago by Attila Szucs.
• This reply was modified 1 year ago by Attila Szucs.

Hello TechInventorX,

Adding to the excellent suggestions already made, PETG is indeed a robust choice for waterproof applications, as Simon mentioned, due to its low water absorption and good weather resistance. Manon’s mention of Polycarbonate and Nylon are also spot-on, especially if they are treated to be moisture-resistant.

Polypropylene, suggested by Manon, is also an exceptional material for waterproof applications because of its natural resistance to water absorption and chemical corrosion. It’s widely used in medical and laboratory equipment due to these properties. While it might come at a higher cost, its performance could justify the expense depending on the specifics of your waterproof design testing.

Another material to consider, especially if you need rigidity and high strength, is ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate). It’s known for its weather-resistant properties and is less likely to yellow over time compared to ABS.

When printing, remember that the waterproof quality will also heavily depend on the print’s layer adhesion and overall density. Ensuring a fully sealed layer structure with minimal gaps is crucial for a truly waterproof part. Post-processing methods like epoxy coating or even acetone smoothing (for ABS) can further seal a print, but these techniques would not be compatible with all materials.

Choosing the right material is a great first step, but for your waterproof design, you’ll want to pair it with a 3D printing process that ensures a tight seal to prevent water ingress.

Best of luck with your waterproof testing!

Warm regards, Attila

Hello Eric,

It’s excellent to hear you’re taking full advantage of the capabilities of the Mimaki 3DUJ-2207. Utilizing 3MF, PLY, and OBJ file formats is indeed a great strategy for achieving high-fidelity prints with a wide colour spectrum and detailed textures. These formats’ ability to retain complex colour information make them ideal for the kind of detailed work I imagine you’re doing. I’d be interested to learn about your experience with the colour fidelity and texture detail when transferring from design files to printed objects, especially with the 3DUJ-2207’s capabilities. Your practical insights would be invaluable, particularly for those in the community considering similar equipment or who are looking to refine their multi-colour 3D printing processes.

Best,
Attila

Hello Daan,

It’s fantastic to see you venturing into vapor polishing for SLS parts. This process can indeed enhance the surface finish of PA11 and PA12 parts, making them smoother and more aesthetically pleasing. Given your concern about maintaining dimensional accuracy, here’s what you need to know:

Understanding Dimensional Changes:

• Vapor polishing works by slightly melting the outer surface of the part, smoothing it in the process.
• PA11 and PA12, being semi-crystalline polymers, are susceptible to minor dimensional changes due to this outer layer alteration.
• Typically, the change is in the range of a few microns but can vary based on the part’s geometry and the exact conditions of the vapor polishing process.

Tips for Maintaining Tight Tolerances:

1. Test and Measure: Before proceeding with production parts, test the vapor polishing process on a few sample parts. Measure these pre- and post-polishing to understand the average dimensional change you can expect.
2. Adjust Part Design: If you consistently see a certain degree of shrinkage or dimensional change, consider adjusting your part designs to compensate.
3. Controlled Environment: Ensure the vapor polishing process is conducted in a controlled environment, with consistent temperature and exposure time to minimize variations.
4. Layer Thickness Consideration: Parts printed with finer layer thickness might show less noticeable changes after vapor polishing due to their already smoother surface.
5. Post-Process Measurement: Always measure your parts after vapor polishing to ensure they still meet the required tolerances. Consider using this data to further refine your process.

Experiences with PA11/PA12:

• Both materials are known for their durability and flexibility, which is retained after vapor polishing.
• Dimensional changes are typically minimal but more noticeable on edges or thin features.
• Anecdotally, some have reported up to a 0.5% change in dimension, though this is highly dependent on part design and polishing conditions.

Conclusion: Vapor polishing can significantly improve the surface quality of PA11 and PA12 parts. By carefully controlling the process and adjusting for any dimensional changes, you can maintain tight tolerances while achieving a superior finish. As always, experimentation and precise measurement are key to refining your approach. Should you have further questions or need more detailed advice, feel free to reach out. Happy to help you navigate these advanced finishing techniques.

Best wishes, Attila

Hello Steven,

I hope you’re doing well. I understand the nuances involved in selecting the right file type for your projects. It’s great that you’re exploring beyond STL files for creating multi-colored small sculptures.

• STL files are standard for 3D printing but lack the capability to store color information.
• For multi-colored prints, you need file formats that can carry color and material data along with geometry.

Key Insights:

• VRML (.wrl): An older format, VRML (Virtual Reality Modeling Language), supports color and texture. However, it’s less commonly used today.
• 3MF (.3mf): A modern alternative that stores detailed information including colors, textures, and print attributes. It’s becoming increasingly popular due to its comprehensive data storage capabilities.

1. 3MF (.3mf) Files:

   • Supports full color and texture, along with other print-relevant data.
   • Widely supported by modern 3D printing software and services.
   • Example: Perfect for intricate toys with multiple colors and materials.

2. VRML (.wrl) Files:

   • Can include color and texture but might not be supported by all current 3D printers.
   • Useful for projects where compatibility with older systems is necessary.
   • Example: Suitable for simpler projects that require basic color textures.

In conclusion, I’d recommend starting with 3MF for its advanced capabilities and wider support. However, VRML can be a viable option depending on your specific needs and equipment. If you have any further questions or need clarification, please don’t hesitate to ask. I’m here to help make your 3D printing journey as smooth as possible.

Best regards, Attila

Generally, high-strength aluminum alloys are more expensive than common steel grades. Plus, if the brackets support conveyor components (inside a machine I guess), they don’t need to have properties for outdoor use, such as corrosion resistance. So steel seems to me a better option in terms of cost-efficiency.

Aluminum is a lightweight material and has good corrosion resistance. But I’m afraid it may no be the best choice for your heavy-duty applications. Steel would be much better if strength and load-bearing are an essential requirements. But you can also find high-strength aluminium alloys that can carry significant weight. These alloys can also withstand outdoor weather conditions. I would say it mostly depends on your application and specific needs. Hope this helps!

For this application, I would recommend Inconel 718 – it is a nickel-chromium alloy with great strength and resistance to extreme temperatures (up to 700°C). It is also corrosion resistant. So this is a good material for components like turbine blades, casing and other critical engine parts. It can be used in various manufacturing processes, like machining, welding and additive manufacturing. Hope this helps!

Different aluminium alloys can meet your requirements for this application, such as aluminium 7075. It is widely regarded as the go-to material because of its impressive strength-to-weight ratio, perfect for heavy loads. It also has a great corrosion resistance. But you might also consider aluminium 6061 since it has better machinability and weldability.

• This reply was modified 1 year, 1 month ago by Attila Szucs.