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Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
  • Senior Content Manager
    Hello, and thank you for your question! For your disc to be manufactured with precision, it is ideal to provide a precise CAD file (STP) along with a technical drawing detailing critical dimensions and tolerances. Here’s a helpful guide to properly prepare your technical drawing. If you have specific requirements for the finish, also remember to indicate the desired roughness, especially with a concave curvature like yours. This guide can help you better understand the impact of the surface. And it doesn’t matter if you’re an individual, as long as your request is well prepared, you’ll get a precise and tailored quote.
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    in reply to: Moulding of a Concave Disk
    Senior Content Manager

    Hello Benjamin,
    Do you have a question to ask? It seems that your message has been truncated, and in its current state it is not very useful to the Community.

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    in reply to: MEI industry pieces
    Senior Content Manager

    Hello adrimeca,

    There is not a wide choice of 3D printing materials that can withstand such temperatures. Do you want to make a piece in plastic or metal? Here are some material suggestions that might work:

    • Plastics
      • ULTEM 1010 is probably the best option for plastic materials, with a temperature resistance up to 216°C. It is compatible with FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling) 3D printing technology
      • CE 221 has an even higher resistance (over 220°C) but Carbon’s DLS technology is still expensive, especially compared to FDM
    • Metals – I’d recommend the following materials for 3D metal printing (DMLS)
      • Aluminium AlSi10Mg
      • Stainless steel 316L
      • Inconel 718

    I would say that aluminium AlSi10Mg remains the most viable option considering your requirements. I hope this answer will be useful to you!

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    Senior Content Manager

    Hi Zdenek,
    To complete Niko’s answer, you can check this detailed article about flame retardant materials https://xometry.pro/en-eu/articles/flame-retardant-plastics-ul-94/ You’ll find a list of materials which are, for most of them, UL 94 V-0 rated.
    I also would like to bring your attention to the fact that depending on your application, V-0 rating might not be necessary and you could consider V-2 or V-1 (or maybe even HB) rated materials. The grade of flame retardancy should be chosen based on the part, its application, and the environment in which it will be used.

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    Senior Content Manager

    Hello,
    Thank you for your question, I’m sure it will be useful to other engineers.
    Unfortunately, I do not have the answer at the moment. But the good news is that we have a wide network of partners and people we have asked for help to bring you an answer as soon as possible.
    Thank you for your patience!

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    in reply to: Suspension
    Senior Content Manager
    Anton Huryn

    Actually, we also have a transparent injection moulding card sample. Check it out:

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    Senior Content Manager

    Hello,
    Unfortunately, I do not have expertise in robotics, but I can nonetheless recommend metal 3D printing (also called DMLS), it is the technology that will allow you to make the most resistant parts in 3D printing. As for the material, stainless steel 316L is the one with the best mechanical properties.
    I hope this answer is useful to you anyway!

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    in reply to: ROBOT ARM
    Senior Content Manager
    TechInventorX

    And if you want to read more on this topic, you can have a look at this article: https://xometry.pro/en-eu/articles/3d-printing-water-resistant/

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    Senior Content Manager
    Attila Szucs

    To jump back on Attila’s feedback, I invite you to check out this table below – we compared the prices of several water-resistant materials in our Instant Quoting Engine:

    So, according to this table, PETG remains a good option for your experiment if you don’t want to spend too much money. But actually, I think ABS could be even better, because, as Attila mentioned, it can be vapour smoothed to ensure its waterproofness.

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    Senior Content Manager

    Hello TechInvertorX, If you’re looking for material that doesn’t absorb water, I agree with Simon, you can consider using PETG. Polycarbonate, or certain types of Nylon could also be a good fit since they are specifically treated for low moisture absorption. I would say Polypropylene is one of the best options though – it is a popular material for food packaging bottles and containers. But it might be more expensive, especially for prototyping a single of a few parts.

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    Senior Content Manager

    Hi Daan, to give you a comprehensive overview, I also recommend checking out a video we’ve created on vapor smoothing. It’s quite informative and visually demonstrates the process and its effects on 3D printed parts. You can watch it here: https://youtu.be/1LoPp8gc5yI?si=O8LgbiTRYpdwsAW9

    We also ran a few experiments on 3D prints and it turned out that you can achieve a much smoother surface without affecting the parts’ dimensional accuracy with vapor smoothing. We have an in-depth article on this finishing process, you can have a look here: https://xometry.pro/en-eu/articles/3d-printing-vapor-smoothing/

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    Senior Content Manager
    Robert400

    Absolutely, happy to help! Choosing the right layer thickness for FDM really depends on your specific goals for the prototype:

    • 0.1 mm or 100 µm (Fine) –for high-detail prints with more intricate details and superior finish quality, but with longer print times
    • 0.2 or 200 µm (Standard) – it is a quite balanced option between speed and detail, and it’s suitable for a large variety of prints
    • 0.3 or 300 µm (Economy) – this is the fastest option, where speed is clearly prioritized, but the layer lines will be much more visible. But it is suitable for rough prototypes


    Hope this helps!

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    in reply to: Layer thickness for FDM and SLA
    Senior Content Manager
    TechSavvy

    Exactly, the scale of production and the prototyping stage’s dynamic nature are crucial factors. If you’re in the prototyping phase where changes are likely, vacuum casting provides the flexibility to make those adjustments without incurring significant costs. Injection moulding might be more economical for large-scale production due to lower costs per unit, but for a range like 30-50, vacuum casting often comes out on top in terms of cost and flexibility.

    Also, keep in mind that vacuum casting prototypes often need a bit of extra work to get the finish just right, which could add time and cost. Plus, the silicone moulds used in vacuum casting don’t hold up as well as the metal moulds in injection moulding, especially if you’re making a lot of parts. This could impact your costs and how quickly you can get your prototypes ready.

    If you’re keen on digging deeper into this topic, there’s a cool article comparing vacuum casting and injection moulding here: https://xometry.pro/en-eu/articles/vacuum-casting-vs-injection-molding/

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    Senior Content Manager

    Welcome to the forum! The layer height is the thickness of each layer that the printer lays down. For FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling), layer heights are typically between 0.1 to 0.3 mm, although they can go finer. Lower layer heights give you finer detail but at the cost of longer print times and potentially more failures.

    As for SLA, the printers typically have finer layer heights compared to FDM, often ranging from 0.025 to 0.1 mm. SLA works by curing resin with a laser or light source, so it can achieve very fine details.

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    in reply to: Layer thickness for FDM and SLA
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    Senior Content Manager
    Zimonix

    It’s sufficient to maintain structural integrity under normal conditions. But if your piece is intended for applications where it will be subjected to high mechanical stresses, I would recommend increasing the wall thickness to reinforce the robustness, for example to 1 mm or more, depending on your specific needs.

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    in reply to: 3D Printing with Aluminum
    Senior Content Manager

    Hello! Yes, for AlSi10Mg aluminum, the minimum wall thickness we recommend is 0.4 mm, with support structures. Without a support structure, then we recommend a thickness of 0.5 mm to maintain the structural integrity of the part. However, this can vary depending on the machine and the specific printing conditions.

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    in reply to: 3D Printing with Aluminum
    Senior Content Manager

    If you have other questions about the types of hole drilling, do not hesitate to consult this white paper on the subject. It contains all the main reference symbols to use on your technical drawings and common applications https://xometry.pro/fr/guides/livre-blanc-types-trous-ingenierie/

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    Senior Content Manager

    By the way, here’s a link to an article with more details on food-grade 3D printing materials and technologies https://xometry.pro/en-eu/articles/3d-printing-food-safe/

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    in reply to: Food contact safe manufacturing
    Senior Content Manager

    You can also check these two videos explaining the process of each of these two post-processing operations:

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    in reply to: Anodising vs. powder coating
    Senior Content Manager
    The choice of material based on its characteristics is crucial, as not all react the same way to dyes. But the best solution is always to send a sample of the desired color to the supplier, at least for the first batch. And ideally, to keep the same supplier throughout production to ensure the uniformity of the parts and their color. I also invite you to read this article on the subject https://xometry.pro/fr/articles/moulage-injection-couleur/
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    Senior Content Manager

    You can also check this article that goes deeper into the topic of designing perfect technical drawing for CNC machining, or watch this video that combines all tips https://youtu.be/lb5i00DHGG8?si=onJzGBs1w6smHC2-

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    Senior Content Manager
    For parts intended for outdoor use, and for fused wire deposition, I recommend ASA. This material is very resistant, both to weather and to sun and aging due to UV rays. And it is available in many different colors. ABS is also a robust material, but its properties are not as good as ASA’s when it comes to outdoor conditions. Otherwise, PETG can be a good alternative. It is robust and offers good resistance to UV rays. And it can be found in various colors. As for Nylon, and in particular PA12, it is indeed an excellent material with good mechanical properties, but preferably with SLS technology (or MJF if we stick to powder bed technologies). Associated with fused wire deposition, PA12 is not as resistant.
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    in reply to: Best FDM Materials for Outdoor Use
    Senior Content Manager

    Stainless steel 316L can also be an alternative to Inconel 718, with a melting point of 1,400°C (1,430°C for Inconel). Stainless steel has a lower tensile strength though. If you are considering 3D printing, you can check this article that compares the best heat-resistant materials (both metals and plastics) https://xometry.pro/en-eu/articles/3d-printing-materials-heat-resistant/

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Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)